Month: February 2018

This time around my excursion into Stockholm was for a class. Last week was exciting for a few reasons: first full week of classes, some Swedish snow, and the beautiful act of laundry to name a few. But, I think the best thing to show off for anybody reading is my first field study in Stockholm. This past Wednesday, I went to the Royal Palace with my Swedish Language and Culture class. This is the palace that housed the Swedish monarch for more than a millennia, although there have been renovations. It was a fascinating place and the guide made it even better, spouting fact after fact or detail after detail about every aspect of the palace, its design, and its furnishings. Additionally, getting some insider stories about the Swedish monarch made the Swedish crown a possible subject to a TV series.

This is where we entered the castle. It was a brisk walk up some truly gorgeous steps. The exact same steps that dignitaries from all over the European world would have had to walk to meet the King or Queen. The steps were these massive slabs of stone surrounded by marble covered walls with the most fine details etched into the accents of the interior architecture. It was really something special. In the U.S. we don’t have a royal family, or the artifacts left behind from a monarch like this. Seeing the true amount of opulence that was used to inspire the sort of power necessary to hold and maintain power over a country of people was staggering. Our guide spoke about power and how it has been used as a tool to cement the authority of the crown, not only domestically but to surrounding countries as a way to stave off invasion. If someone came to meet with you and felt like they were equal, what would keep them from thinking they could take it all away. It was unbelievable how much thought was put into making the royals at a higher level than everyone else. There were even dinners where people couldn’t sit or eat, but were invited to simply stand and watch the royal family eat and have conversation. This was an honor people wanted, even when that dinner could last four hours and have 32 courses.

Today, the royal family no longer acts as the face of the country. Similarly to Britain, the Royal Family has no political power and doesn’t vote in any political affair. Even more shockingly, they aren’t allowed to have an opinion that differs from the political outlook of the government. The Swedish people’s opinions about the crown are mixed to say the least. The days are long gone when Sweden cared about opulence and displays of power. People have even greater feelings that tax dollars (or Krona) every year go to the family and the palace to maintain the artifacts of the past. Some traditions even still remain today. The King sits at the banquet table (which they hold multiple times a year) with an extra table cloth under their plate. This comes from the old tradition that the king would sit at an elevated level to his guest. Today it is by about a millimeter thanks to that tablecloth. I completely understand that the Royal Family is an artifact of the past similar to all the pieces of royalty in the palace, but I would say the Palace is basically a museum. They’re not funding a family that spends tax dollars on a Bentley or a Ferrari. They’re the spiritual face of the nation. Also, they almost certainly bring a lot of tourist dollars into the country. The guide also mentioned that many of the traditions of yesteryear are slowly being phased out. Sweden is ever changing and so is their royalty.

After literally anything in Sweden, there is only one thing left to do: Fika! We all took a small walk over to this wonderful little cafe overlooking an old square. This wasn’t the usual location of the place, but thanks to a water leak we were given a once in a lifetime chance. The entire little restaurant had been moved two floors up in this gorgeous little building. I was too excited about the prospect of DIS treating us all to coffee and something to eat that I didn’t get any pictures, but the spiral staircase with an old fashioned elevator in the middle is ingrained in my mind. Talk about European goals. After taking our seats we were allowed to peruse a few of the options for sustenance. My eyes immediately trained upon a Semla. This distinctly Swedish treat that I had seen everywhere but never had a chance to try. It was delicious. The bread was much less sweet than I expected, but the whipped cream added just the right amount of moisture and hint of sweetness to make me a very happy camper. Additionally, the middle was filled with this sweet almond butter that was the perfect surprise.

It was a truly amazing first week. I would have never gotten to see what this field study showed me. The guided tour was fascinating, funny, informational, and actually pretty awe-inspiring. I got to have awesome political discussions with peers and new friends. I was able to eat a dessert that I had been dying try to in a place that was to die for. (See what I did there?) I am so excited to see what else Stockholm has to show me. Do you know what’s the best thing about these Field Studies? I have them basically every week I’m here and have class. Thanks for reading. Onto the next one!

First week down and a lot has happened! This week was based around orientation with the program and orienting myself with this beautiful new city. The first few days had a large amount of culture shock (although I use the term lightly) and awe for all the stark changes I saw, but that’s lessened. That isn’t to say the city has become common place but the little pieces of familiarity have come out and started to bloom. The public transport, the people, and the consumerism are really keeping me grounded. (Don’t worry, it will make sense.)

Public transport in Stockholm is truly a blessing. I’ve only ever really used one public transportation system, being the one run under New York City. The system in Stockholm  is called SL and I can only think of ways it’s better than home. I’ve mainly been using the metro/subway (or the Tunnelbanan), but the SL system covers any sort of transit including buses, commuter trains, and even ferry’s. With the program, we get this transit card that covers unlimited travel on any of the services in the system. At first this network of transport is vast, non-nonsensical, and scary. But that all changed after a few trips and the pressure of commuting. Missing a stop changes a metro into a simple, although very scary, game of finding your way back. Once you play that game and win, you will know your way around. Let’s just say, I played that game early in my week. It was a scary moment that lasted about 10 minutes. Names you don’t know and colors that determine the line can be a lot to stare at, too much stimulus only adding to your confusion and anxiety. However, taking a train one stop backwards is not the end of the world and can be worked out pretty easy. That’s something I know and that’s something that feels just like home. Never fear, the metro is here. And it is easy.

The people at first seem perfect, too perfect even, but after a little time they open up and show their human side. When you get here, there’s an instant change in people surrounding you. Everyone is independent, capable, and speak English basically perfectly. (Which can feel awful when you don’t speak a lick of Swedish.) Also, they are extremely fashionable. Wait, I might not be making my point. If it isn’t coming across, they’re a little (extremely) intimidating. You feel out of place very distinctly and mostly accurately. You don’t belong here; that’s okay and important to realize, but palpable and quite a shock. It takes a while for you to come to terms with your difference. After you do, the people stop being so scary and start to become as interesting as they truly are. You’ll never guess, Swedish people are… at the end of the day… if you’ll believe it… people. Additionally, they are kind people. This guy above was yelling in Swedish in a little market in a consumer district of Stockholm by the Hotorget station of the Tunnelbanan. He was selling fruit. I ran over to take a picture of the stand and its background. I mean, look at those lights. As soon as he sees me, he stops yelling, faces me, and puts up a “knarley” sign. It was fantastic. After getting the picture, I run to catch up with friends, yelling “tack so mycket” with a big smile on my face. He is one of millions of people that live in Stockholm. One in millions of pictures, thanks, and knarley signs yet to be had.

New York City is a big city and an even bigger city for shopping, but Stockholm has not left me wanting in the slightest. There is a massive presence of shops, both high end and low, all over the city. There is something extremely comforting about window shopping boutiques and little boogie restaurants based on new culinary trends as I walk down the street. I hate to say it, but capitalism is comforting. It is a pivotal part of the westernized (and really any) culture in the world. Coming to Europe, I wasn’t thinking about shopping and I’m still not. However, having this presence makes it feel like home. I first realized it because of commercials. On the first train I got on, there was a commercial for Molly’s Game and some Swedish animated movie. There are movies people are gonna go see, there are kids movies that parents get dragged to and have to sit through, there are people that have to put those signs up. This kind of culture made things feel less alien and unknown. It works the same here as it does at home, so will everything else. I was even able to find a little Time Square pictured above. It doesn’t get captured it in the picture; there were screens all over and shops walling the intersection. I was overcome in such a familiar way. I don’t mean to get cheesy, but holm didn’t feel so far away.